The German twisted cast on technique resembles the long tail cast on but adds an extra twist in the “anchoring” loop for each stitch, resulting in a neat, stretchy edge. It is sometimes referred to as the Old Norwegian cast on. The German twisted cast on, a variation of the more common long tail cast on, is worked similarly but yields a much stretchier edge due to the base loops being twisted in the opposite direction. This flexibility makes it a popular choice for hat and sock patterns.
What you’ll need
- Yarn
- Knitting needles in size appropriate for yarn
- Scissors
Instructions
To get started, you need only one of your knitting needles. Begin by making a slip knot on your knitting needle, ensuring the tail is about 3-4 times the width of your project (as this method uses a long tail).
Prepare to cast on
01: Hold the yarn in a slingshot position, with the long tail looped over your thumb and the working yarn draped over your index finger. Use your remaining fingers to hold the strands taut. Keep the slip knot in place on the knitting needle with your index finger. This position is similar to how you hold the yarn for a long tail cast on.
Needle under the thumb loop
02: Next, dip the needle under both strands of yarn wrapped around your thumb, going all the way around the loop from below.
Needle through the loop
03-04: To complete the twist, insert the needle into that loop coming from above – catching the side of the yarn loop that’s away from you and then bring it up toward you.
Needle under the finger loop
05: Grab the working yarn towards your index finger coming from behind – dip the needle under the yarn to catch it.
Needle through the twisted gap
06-07: Untwist the loop around your thumb by bending it towards the palm of your hands. Pull the yarn through the untwisted loop and remove your thumb from the loop.
Tighten the stitch
08: Once the yarn is through the twisted gap and your thumb is out of the loop, tighten up the stitch. Use your thumb and finger to pull the strands of yarn, tightening the newly cast-on stitch. This should result in another slingshot position.
Repeat
Repeat the steps above until you cast on the required number of stitches.
Notes
Be careful when tightening the stitches. They should be aligned side by side without crossing each other. Additionally, tightening too quickly can cause the spacing between the stitches to become uneven.
Since this cast-on method twists the loop to add stretch, your yarn may be affected. Keep an eye out for untwisting, and pause to fix it as needed.
When you are knitting in the round, consider skipping the slipknot and starting with a simple backward loop instead. This will result in a much smoother transition.
German twisted cast on vs single cast on
The German twisted cast-on results in the exact same edge as a single cast-on. The main distinction lies in the process: while the single cast-on involves knitting across a separate row after casting on, the German twisted cast-on integrates this initial row as you cast on.
To achieve the German twisted cast-on using a single cast on technique:
- Cast on the required number of stitches using a single cast-on (creating a row of twisted loops around your needle).
- Knit across one row.
The only noticeable difference may be a slight reduction in stretchiness, depending on how tightly you pull the loops during casting on. You can counteract this by using needles one or two sizes larger to achieve a super stretchy edge if desired.
How much yarn do I need for German Twisted cast-on?
The German Twisted cast-on requires a significant amount of yarn. To calculate the yarn needed, you can apply common methods used for the long tail cast-on, such as the wrap method.
Simply wrap the yarn around your knitting needle. For a medium-sized project, plan on approximately 2.5 wraps per stitch to be cast on. Eg., if you intend to cast on 20 stitches, you’ll need around 50 wraps, plus extra yarn for weaving in later.
For precise calculations, especially for larger stitch counts (e.g., around 400 stitches), I recommend casting on 10 or 20 stitches first, then unraveling them to measure the yarn used.